The unspoken rules of celebrating Oktoberfest in Munich

Oktoberfest is a worldwide phenomenon, a Bavarian beer festival celebrated in countries around the globe.

But many say nowhere is it more fun than in its original home of Munich. The festival attracts some six million celebrants every year, according to a festival website operated by Munich’s Department of Labor and Economics.

As a non-Bavarian German, I visit Munich regularly and have learned a few things about attending the festival, known simply as the “Wiesn.” Here’s my advice.

The dress code for many is the traditional Bavarian dirndl, for women, and lederhosen, for men. In stark contrast to other parts of the world, you won’t be accused of cultural misappropriation here — in fact, the locals invite international visitors to dress in traditional costumes.

These outfits are available at any budget, from inexpensive wear-once costumes to vintage and bespoke clothing rentals.

A couple of things to bear in mind: Lederhosen is plural, so one pair of leather trousers is simply a lederhose. These are Bavarian-style outfits, not German as many travelers believe. Travel north, and you will not see them — except for Oktoberfest, of course.

Beer is not served in steins, as many believe, but in glasses called a “mass,” which is one liter of beer. The servers carry up to six mass in each hand, weighing roughly 12 kilograms (26 pounds). Servers are paid a percentage of the beer and food they serve, plus tips. So tip well, please.

To get their attention, servers wear a clothespin with their name on it, but they also answer to the relaxed address of ‘du’ —  which means “you” — in German.

Revelers hold the mass by the handle so they can easily clink glasses and drink to toasts. When the band calls out: “Ein Prosit, ein Prosit der Gemütlichkeit. Oans, zwoa, driel g’suffa!” — which translates to “A toast, a toast to fun and friendliness. One, two, three, drink up!” — merrymakers are expected to finish their glasses and reorder.

At other times, they practice “Schunkeln,” linking arms and swaying to the music.

Women: if you wear a dirndl, watch where you tie your bow. Ties on the left traditionally mean you are single and open to flirting. Married women, and women in relationships, tie the bow on the right. Waitresses tied them in the back.

Oktoberfest is all about beer, which is specially brewed for the event and quite strong (above 6%). But there is also wine, Apfelschorle (a beverage made of carbonated water and apple juice), alcohol-free beer, soft drinks and water.

Across the Wiesn, there are myriad food stalls, serving gigantic pretzels, called brezen, meats like bratwurst, weisswurst and schnitzel, plus fries, curries and so much more.

Within easy walking distance from the Theresienwiese — which means “Therese’s meadow,” which is where the festival is held — travelers can visit the Sendlinger Tor, a former city gate, and the Viktualienmarkt, a lovely market.

The historic old town is also nearby, which is home to the former royal palace, Residenz Palace, the world-famous Hofbräuhaus, and the Beer and Oktoberfest Museum.

For a day trip from the city, the jaw-dropping Neuschwanstein Castle is a 90-minute drive from Munich. Salzburg, in Austria, is less than two hours away by train — a gorgeous city, as is the picture-postcard-perfect town of Rothenburg ob der Tauber, north of Munich.

After all that beer, a day relaxing among the snowcapped Alps at Lake Starnberg can be considered too.  

Those who can’t make it to Munich, worry not. There are fantastic festivals around the world to experience the tradition, fun, and food and drink.

One of the largest celebrations is in Hong Kong, which has all of the festival’s trappings, plus views of Hong Kong Harbour.

In the United States, a large festival occurs in Cincinnati, Ohio, and in South America in Blumenau, Brazil.

Those not keen on crowds can try another annual German celebration — the Spring Festival. It’s held in the same place, Munich’s Theresienwiese, but has fewer tents, and in many ways can be just as much fun.

Correction: This article has been updated to reflect that dirndl tied on the left indicate that the wearer is single.